Difference Between Mx and Enduro Bikes

Sure, you get some huge endure bikes, some offering over 1000cc while MX bikes tend to be for the track and usually limit at 450cc. While many think the 450 is the best, the pros tend to choose the 250s, 300s and 350s for their weekend toys while going hitting the track for some huge jumps.

More often than not, you see beginner riders try to make an MX bike work as an enduro bike, meaning they use a bike that’s meant for the track and use it for riding over rocks, slow up hills and technical sections. At the time, as a beginner, you might think it’s perfect, and the bouncy ride and long gearing is just part of how it all works. However, when you compare an MX and Enduro, you’ll quickly see why these are on completely different levels.

Instead of trying to compare a 450 to one of the big endure bikes, we’ll take a look at the 250cc bikes as they come in both MX and endure. On top of that, they’re actually the most popular in both cases, especially with riders who like the idea of additional power.

Gearbox

This is a huge difference in these bikes and completely changes the way you ride, how much grip you have and just quickly that back tire begins to spin when all you’re trying to do is get through a low technical area.

It’s actually quite simple, think about how often an MX rider would use first gear, just to get going right? That would mean the MX box has a really long and snappy first gear, allowing maximum power off the line. While this is great and it does really quick in a straight line, you don’t want that kind of power when you’re on the rocks and trying to ride up a huge hill as just a small twist would send the power through, and that back wheel will just start spinning, whether you’re ready or not.

The endure gearbox is much like the bike that are meant for dual purpose, meaning it’s similar to a road bike, but not quite the same. It’s actually between the two, giving you the best advantage of both. It also has more flywheel effect, allowing you to keep going at low RPMs without stalling the whole time.

Suspension

Again, think about what MX riders do vs. what you want to do. MX bikes have really hard suspension as they are used to jump and land really hard. Therefore, it has to be stiff, not flex and certainly not bottom out. Using that for enduro won’t just wear you out from vibrations over rocks and logs, but it’s too hard to catch grip between technical sections, once again leaving you with wheelspin.

Enduro suspension is far from too soft or unable to do the jumps. Sure, they won’t do what an MX bike does as often as it does, but it can certainly do nearly as much. The difference is, the enduro suspension gives you a much better grip and makes it a lot easier to ride as the wheels stay on the ground more.

Choosing the Right Bike Size

Most of us learn to ride motorbikes from a young age and continue to ride throughout our lives. Those who ride from a young age tend to buy bigger bikes, not only because they are fast, but they are comfortable as well.

However, if you’re anything over 15 years old and just getting into motorbikes, you might want to reconsider that 1000cc or even 600cc you’ve got your eye on. Everyone always says “I’ll be fine with a bigger bike” even when they have no experience. And sure, many riders are fine for a ride around the block, which usually ends in scratches and even worse.

So, where should you start to ensure you not only avoid making a fool of yourself, but also learn how to control the bike properly? Well, there are a few steps you need to follow, and if you’re willing to participate in the small steps, you’ll find yourself becoming a much better rider much faster, and you’ll have much greater control over the motorbike, even when you eventually move onto the bigger bikes.

Start with Off-Road

Let’s say you get on your 600cc bike as a beginner, open it too much around a corner and the back-wheel stars to spin a slip out under you, would you know what to do? If you don’t, the best place to start is getting a fun off-road bike and going to play in the dirt. Many of the dirt bikes are legal for on-road use as well, allowing you to commute and play with it on weekends.

Getting off-road is a lot of fun, and it allows you to learn control extremely fast as it throws obstacles at you that you won’t find on the roads in normal conditions. It is those conditions you need to be aware of and ready for as they end of being the ones that decide whether you’re going to fall or manage to save it.

You don’t have to get a tiny 50cc off-road bike either as most above 15 years old can handle a 250cc and still have more than enough power to play with. Whether you want to learn how to drift a bike, wheelie or just about any other tricks, when you have a dirt bike, there’s no better place to learn than on soft green grass.

Stepping Up from the Dirt

Once you’re confident in your dirt bike abilities and ready to hit the road with something a little bigger, go for the 600cc as you’ve have everything you need to handle it well, assuming you spent enough time on dirt roads and fell a couple of times at least.

You instantly feel a major weight difference with the bikes, which will be terrible to start with as the dirt bikes make it really easy to play. If you find you’re not a fan of a heavier bike, consider a motard and get the best of both worlds.

Deciding Between 2 and 4 Stroke Dirt Bikes

 It almost doesn’t matter what you search for dirt bike related, the argument involving 2 and four strokes is always involved, and no one can give you a straight answer as to which is better. You get the two stroke fans who love the power and sound of the bike, and on the other hand, you get the four stroke fans who enjoy the power through the revs.

So, how do you decide what bike is best for your needs? Well, it all comes down to what you want to do with it. Remember, it’s not just about the stroke, but also the gearbox and other feature of the dirt bike that plays a major role. For example, if you’re planning to do trains and adventure riding, an MX bike might not be the answer as their gearing is really short and they don’t have any lights. However, if you look at enduro bikes that has all the same features as an MX bike, but comes with a better seat, lights, longer gears and a bigger tank, you might just find exactly what you’re looking for.

Once you’ve decided on the type of riding you’re interested in, 10% of your deciding factor is done. Now, the major difference between a 2 and four stroke is maintenance and just how much fun you can have on the bike. At the end of the day, the two stroke and four straight bikes are identical when it comes to suspension, ride height and other features of the bike, including the gearbox. So, if you are comparing a two stroke and for stroke for any reason other than maintenance and the engine itself, you are simply wasting your time.

Maintenance

There is no doubt about it, a two stroke engine has fewer moving parts and is, therefore, cheaper to maintain and less likely to break, which is just one of the many reasons these engines remain popular to this day.

Unlike four stroke motors, a two stroke doesn’t require old changes as it doesn’t take any oil. Instead, it’s mixed in with your petrol. Of course, this can be undone when factor for some, especially those who could forget to mix oil into the gasoline before firing it up for a ride. If you do forget, it would cost you as the engine would seize, putting you out of riding until the motor gets redone.

If you are looking for an engine that doesn’t require regular maintenance in terms of oil changes along with multiple wear and tear parts on the engine, you simply cannot go wrong with a two stroke.

Power

If there is no denying that two stroke engines simply have more power as they fire on every single stroke. If you are a beginner rider deciding between a two and four strokes, you will find many say that a 125cc two stroke is about the same as a 250cc four stroke, which should be enough information to tell you just how incredible two stroke engines are.

2019 MotoGP Predictions and Changes

The new year has basically just arrived, and every petrol head is already talking about the biggest sports and what might happen, including MotoGP. There is a lot of changes to the teams, and the bikes are also changing a bit, making the talks even bigger as we might see a mix up of events as they race around the biggest international circuits.

Interestingly, many aren’t looking at the front racers for the biggest changes, but rather in the mid-field as we could see some new opportunities. Sure, the winner of MotoGP is important, but we also see major fights for the other titles, including top rookie, best improvements and more.

When it comes to the actual title, it’s almost impossible to look past Marquez. In fact, most aren’t even wondering about if he would win, but rather wonder by how much. This is already a bold statement seeing as the season hasn’t even started, but there’s no denying that the RC213V Honda will be improved on its already amazing performance in 2018.

MotoGP Bike Changes

Sure, each team finds new ways to improve their bikes and focus on unique sections. For example, the HRC team once again focuses on top speed runs but redesigning the front of the bike, but we also see some new standards enter the race.

One of the biggest changes applies to the IMU device of the bikes, which is used to communicate with the ECU. This device tells the computer and team what the current leaning angle of the bike it, which is important for changes.

The IMU will now be a standard device across all the teams, meaning fine tuning won’t be an option anymore. This has brought changes to bring the field closer together and make it more exciting as everyone would be able to keep up more. We know, it’s not like MotoGP isn’t already a close sport, but why not make it more competitive, right?

New Racers

With loads of changes and interesting predictions, we also see some new racers joins the field who have already shown some amazing results. There are currently four teams getting new racers for the season ahead, each determined to lead. As we all know, MotoGP is on a whole new level, but if history is any indication, it’s well worth reading up on what they’re capable of before rushing off to place your bets.

We’ll get to see what these new rookies can do soon enough, especially since the first test is just around the corner. The first new face in MotoGP is Miguel Oliveira who is making his way to the Tech 3 Racing KTM. There’s also Francesco Bagnaia who forms part of the Alma Pramac Racing team. We also get to meet Fabio Quartararo who is ready to join the field with the Petronas Yamaha team. Finally, we also see a new face with the Team Suzuki Ecstar team, named Joan Mir.

Modern Single Cylinder Engine vs. Push Rod Engine

Push Rod engines to use technology that’s old and just don’t need to be as efficient as modern engines that have completely gotten rid of the pushrods and have the cam directly above the valves instead. However, both these engines are still being used to this day.


The majority of motorbikes use the modern engine setup, but there are still some Harleys and Chinese knock-offs that use the technology. To understand the difference, we look to look at how these engines work, which mainly revolves around the way the valves open and close. Sure, many other aspects of the engine have changed over the years, but to compare a pushrod engine to one with a cam over the valves, this is the best place to start.


Push Rod Engines


A push rod engine has a camshaft right above the crank but below the valves. A single cylinder engine has 2 lobes, ones opening the inlet valve and the other opening the exhaust valve, which is about the same as any other engine. Some might have more valves, but the concept remains about the same.


From the cam, the engine uses pushrods that connect to the valve rocket, which is a simple plate that can tilt back and forward. When the cam lobe comes around, it pushes the tappet that’s connected to the push rod, which then lifts the rocket on the one side, making the other side tilt down and force the valve to go open.


The valve closes with a spring and ensures the tappet remains attached to the cam lobe for the best performance. However, since the spring can vibrate at higher revs, the engines tend to lose power when you rev it really high, making them ideal for lower RPM needs.


Over Head Cam Engines


An overhead cam engine is what we see in most modern bikes. They work a lot better and can rev much higher since the cam is above the engine and connects more directly to the valves.


As with the pushrod engine, the car is driven from the crank as well, but instead of gear, it runs off a chain that runs from the bottom of the engine all the way up to the top where the cam is.


These engines also use 2 lobes, one controlling the inlet and the other opening the exhaust valve. As you can see from the picture, it is in stage 1, meaning the inlet valve is open and allows clean air to enter the engine along with petrol. On the next compression, the spark plug will ignite the mixture, causing higher pressure and forcing the piston to go down, giving you power. As the piston reaches the bottom, the cam would have turned to over the exhaust valve, allowing the dirty air to flow out and repeat the process.


Since the valves are controlled directly from the cam, they have a lot more control as they have more stability, allowing the engine to rev much higher without valve float or bounce.

Doing Basic Carburettor Checks if your Bike Doesn’t Start


Having an engine that just refuses to start can be one of the most annoying things of them all. It seems so simple as you only need fuel and spark, but it can be a little more complicated. Luckily, the other checks are easy and once they’re all sorted, it can only be the carb giving you the issues.

In the guide below, we run through a few common issues you’ll find on a motorbike carb that could give you a headache when it comes to starting. Having the right mixture is important as it determines how well the bike runs.

Start with Timing and Spark

To get the fuel to burn in the engine, you need to have a strong enough spark and that spark has to ignite at the exact right time. Therefore, before you do anything to the carb, check that the timing is right by lining up the crank mark with the cam gear.

Once that’s confirmed to be in good order and all covered up again, remove the spark plug wire, put a screwdriver up the plug and let it lay somewhere close to metal (about quarter of an inch away). Do not touch the screwdriver while testing as it will give you a shock. With the screwdriver in place, turn over the engine while looking at the gap between the screwdriver and metal part and you should see a spark running between them.

If you don’t see the spark, you might have a faulty CDI, coil or even spark plug wire, which might just be your problem. First, replace the items mentioned and ensure you get spark before moving on. If you get a spark that you didn’t get before, put the bike back together and try start it first.

Checking the Carb

If you have spark but the engine won’t turn, move on to check the carb. Start with the float by using the carb is actually getting petrol. Towards the bottom of the carb, you’ll find a nozzle and a screw. Attached a clear pipe to the nozzle and turn the screw, which should start to fill the pipe with petrol. Allow it to run through just a little to ensure the carb is getting enough fuel and that it’s clean.

Before you detach the pipe, hold the bike in an upright position and hold the tip of the pipe upwards next to the carb to see the level of the float. The petrol should reach about the high of where the float bowl and carb meet.

Clean the Carb

If the float is around the right level, you’ll need to remove the carb, open it up and use a decent carb cleaner to clear the jets. Be sure to make marking of your air mixture and idle screws and count how many times they turn out as this will make reinstalling a lot easier.

Learning How to Wheelie


One of the most desired tricks for any beginner is learning how to pick up the front wheel and controlling the power for as long as possible. We have all seen the funny videos of people trying to learn the art of a wheelie only to find themselves falling off the bike or completely flipping it backwards.

Of course, none of us want to be in those videos or flip the bike in front of our friends or even worse, the club. Well, if you take the time and practice, you will find most ringed the wheelie is actually very easy as the bike allows you to take full control as long as you stay focused and consider all the possibilities.

Below, we look at the steps of performing a wheelie and how you can go from being an admirer to getting your own front wheel up in the air or impress everyone.

What Bike You Need

Many people make the mistake of using a big superbike to perform their first wheelie or attend to it at least. This is the worst possible way to start as the bike is heavy, has a lot of power and can be extremely intimidating when you try to do stunts such as wheelies.

To get started, it is recommended to use a smaller bike such as a 125 or even 250 dirt bike. These have a lot more power than you think and are more than capable of lifting the front wheel, some even without using the clutch. The benefit of these bikes is that they weigh a lot less, some more than 200 lbs less than superbikes, making them easier to control and they are not as intimidating.

Where to Start

Get ready by pitting on the right protective gear and your helmet. It is best to go to a quiet road or even a dirt road where there aren’t any obstacles or trees nearby. The more space you have to make mistakes, the better as this will avoid you getting hurt on your first few tries.

Before you begin to try wheelies, take the bike for a spin and get used to when it delivers power. If you are borrowing a dirt bike from a friend, you’ll have to spend at least half an hour just getting used to the bike, especially 2 strokes with their sudden power peaks.

Practice Wheelies

Once you got the bike all sorted if you want to start with the most difficult wheelies as these will give you the best technique and the best results. Depending on how much power the bike has, start in first or second gear and move slowly. Always be sure to keep your foot on the back break ready to catch the bike if the wheelie goes too far.

In the beginning, you just want to of the touch while giving it a bit of juice, just enough to get the front wheel all the ground and back down. Do this as often as possible and find your comfort zone before giving more gas as you did to touch and get the front wheel higher.

Tuning Your Bike for the Best Performance


It doesn’t matter if you’re on a dirt bike, super-bike, adventure bike or even a cruiser, getting it to run perfectly is a must. Those who want to apply additional modifications would need it to run right so that any new additions work well and don’t cause even more trouble.

Luckily, a motorbike is easy to tune, but you need to know what to do before just diving in. The most common out of tune item on a bike would be the carburetor, followed by the ignition timing and finally the valve timing.

Most of the time, just the carb’s timing already solves most of your problems with idling and even some misfiring issues. If you’re sure the carb is clean, the jets are clear and they are the right size, you’re all good to go on following this guide to tune it right. If you’ve applied addition mods to the bike already, including a better air filter or had the head gas-flowed for example, you might need to replace the jets as it would be running lean. Remember, the more air the engine gets, the more petrol the mixture needs.

Before you begin the tuning below, it’s recommended to replace the spark plug as this ensures the bike runs well.

Tuning the Carb

To tune the carb, you’ll need to heat up the motor, which simply requires a 10 to 15 minute ride. When you get back, don’t turn off the bike. Look for both the air and fuel screws on the carb and be careful not to burn yourself on the motor.

The air screw commonly sits between the carb itself and the engine. It could be on the side or even at the bottom pointing downwards. The fuel screw would be on the side with a Philips head. If you’re working on a 2-stroke, the air-flow screw would commonly be situated away from the engine.

Turning the air screw clockwise would make it lean as more air comes in while turning it the other way makes it richer as the fuel in the air is higher than it should be. It’s the opposite with the fuel screw as a clockwise turn would make it richer as it allows more petrol and an anti-clockwise turn would make it leaner as it limits the amount of petrol.

To start tuning, use the fuel (idle) screw to increase the revs to around 3000 rpm, then use the air flow screw and turn the bike completely lean. It will decrease the RPM’s as you turn it, but make sure it doesn’t go too low and kill the engine.

You’ll find the bike runs, but with a quick look at the tachometer, you’ll find it’s not steady. The final step is to start turning the idle screw anti-clockwise, which is sure to increase the RPM’s once again. However, don’t turn it too fast (1/8th of a turn at a time). Once you get to a point where the tachometer is stable and around 1,100 RPM, you’re most likely at the perfect tuning position. Repeat the process if you need to or to simply ensure you’ll got it as good as it can be. A quick twist at the throttle would ensure you’re spot on as it responds quickly.

Heading Off-Road? Choose These Entry Level Boots


Whether you’re on a dirt bike, quad or taking your adventure bike off-road, having protection for your feet, ankles and shins are very important. There are various objects that would do some real damage that you won’t commonly find on the road, which is why it’s well worth investing in boots.

The great thing is, you don’t have to go spend huge amounts of cash on the best brands an many now provide excellent protection for under $150. These boots aren’t only great for riding but they also offer a comfortable and secure fit for on-road use as well.

While all of the boots mentioned below are similar in many ways, they certainly have their own unique benefits that would make a difference to your particular requirements. We go over some of the best entry-level options below, allowing you to see the differences and how they can work for you.

O’Neal Element – $149

The O’Neal Element boot is a great choice for riders who want great protection, save some money and don’t mind getting black boots as it’s the only color they come in. This is an excellent example of a decent entry-level boot that provides great styling with white stitching and a molded sole design with additional padding over the toes and shin area. It provides a very comfortable fit but tends to be a little tight at first, meaning you’ll need to wear it in for the perfect fit.

Thor Blitz – $139

Right off the bat, the Thor Blitz boot provides more options, including 4 colors that allow you to choose according to your kit. In terms of protection, the boot actually offers a similar range of features at a $10 lower price tag.

It provides a traditional stitched on sole and includes the metal plate on the toes. It also has excellent shin protection with the shin plate and provides 3 straps to keep the boot secure. It’s also quite stiff as a new boot, which might call for some adjustment once you’ve had it on a few times.

Answer AR1 – $139

The Answer AR1 boot comes in at a great price but offers a better range of features compared to the boots mentioned above.

There’s a lot that stands out on the boot, especially in comparison to the other boots. Firstly, it’s a bit flatter to provide more control and allow you to really grip onto the bike. It also offers a bigger opening at the top that allows you to use slip-in knee guards without making it too tight, making it a great choice for those who want to use a full MX kit.

The boot offers a lot more protection and comfort, not just with heat protection around the calf, but with a special designed D3O light in-sole with shock absorbing. It also offers a much nicer interior with additional padding and material that’s sure to last longer.

Maintaining your Motorbike Chain


Motorbikes require lots of care and maintenance, especially when it comes to the drive train, brakes and other commonly used. It might be annoying at times and even get a little messy, but once you get into the habit of maintaining each aspect of the motorbike, it will never run better, and you’ll always have the cleanest bike at the gathering.

One of the most important parts of the motorbike is the chain as it connects to both the gearbox and the back wheel and is actually the most important part to make the bike move forward. The chain isn’t one of those parts that you can just do once a year and expect it to last, no matter how often you ride.

With that said, it’s important to mention that different types of bikes require their own unique maintenance as well. For example, a road bike might not require the same maintenance as a dirt bike that’s covered in mud and dust all the time. Naturally, the dirt bike needs more care and lubrication, but don’t underestimate the requirements of your road bike.

Below, we look at how you need to take care of your chain and how quickly it actually is. Most recommend cleaning the chain about every 500 miles, which would be a simple scrub down and checking that everything is still in order. Once every 1,000 miles, it’s worth stripping down everything off the chain and reapplying the lubricant.

Determine the Chain you Have

The older chains look exactly the same as the ones we use today, but the difference is they don’t have O-rings on each and every link to ensure dirt and dust doesn’t go into the actual moving parts of the chain. In most cases, you’ll have an O-ring chain, unless you’ve chosen a special racing chain or off-road chain for your bike. The difference with these chains is with cleaning as you cannot use harsh cleaning methods such as metal brushes on a chain with O-rings as you’ll damage them.

If you aren’t sure what chain you have, it’s safest to just assume you have an O-ring chain as none of the cleaning procedures for the O-ring chain would be bad for the older chain.

What You’ll Need

There are a few additions for the toolbox when it comes to tool maintenance as you’ll need a special cleaning spray, which would be available at most spare shops. Be sure to choose one that’s O-ring friendly as the others might include cleaning chemicals that would hard the O-ring, which would basically end your chain’s life much sooner.

Get a nylon scrubbing brush as well. These allow you to really get in there and get the rest of the dirt loose after spraying the chain cleaner on it. Don’t be shy with the cleaner either. The tins are cheap and actually contain a lot of cleaner.

Finally, once the chain is clean and dry, apply chain wax. This is much better than normal lubricant as it doesn’t fling off the chain all over the bike when you take it out for the first time. To apply it, simply apply a single layer of the wax to the inside of the chain.

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